When Spirits Wake

April 4th 2019

Ximending at Night

For completeness' sake, here's a few more pictures from Taipei that didn't make it before the deadline of our last post — enjoy:
After the Quake

What does personal defeat taste like? Like always wanting to witness a (moderate) quake in Taiwan and then having one happen right when you're there, just at the wrong side of the island?
At least that's what I felt like today when I read the headline "Earthquake rocks whole Island of Taiwan", just 20 minutes after it happened. The earthquake had a magnitude of 5.4, there were no injuries or damaged buildings. We probably would've been at a bakery buying our breakfast when it happened — it could sUpPOsEdlY be felt in Taipei, too. Anyway, maybe I'll get another chance in the next one and a half weeks...
After all, Taiwan is, like Japan, part of the 'Ring of Fire' and, as such, always exposed to potential quakes which regularly hit Taiwan. In this year alone, there's already been 5 earthquakes that could be clearly felt by the population (including today's quake — arghh).

Conservative estimates place the percentage of our data usage spent on earthquake-apps, -videos, -maps, and -articles alone at around 90%.

Perhaps I should quit medicine and rather study geology?

How to get to Jiufen — A 2 Step Travel Guide

1. Take the Taipei MRT to Songshan station
2. Follow the first foreigner you see until you inevitably end up 40km away in Jiufen

The small mining town of Jiufen originally dates back to the Japanese colonial times, when the town emerged around the local gold mines — but since Spirited Away, the Jiufen Old Street has transformed into a tourist destination drawing in crowds from all over Taiwan, Korea, Japan, and China as well as the usual international backpacker people.
Three hundred million steps

Since the main attractions of Jiufen only really shine after dusk, we're looking for an alternative pastime until sundown.
Scaling a mountain always sounds good, and the peak of Keelung Mountain (essentially the Mount Everest of northern Taiwan) is only half an hour from our place according to Google Maps.
Despite the at least 'threehundredmillion' steps on the way up and the family in front of us that has to turn back three quarters of the way (Lack of oxygen maybe?), we make it to the peak just ten minutes over time where we take a little break enjoying the beautiful view.
On our way back we're passed by two jumping monks in sandals, who shout out a quick 'Hello' while running past.
Spirited Away

The famous Old Street winds through the town, lined with red lanterns, food, and Studio Ghibli merch to either side.
It does really feel a bit like the first scenes of Spirited Away — with the possible exception that, instead of ghosts and spirits, Korean travel groups (Pale faces, too, but not quite as translucent?) shuffle from shop to shop.
In front of the tea house vista, an old man has found his calling letting his Noface plush pose for the countless people taking pictures — His face fills with joy every time someone manages to take a particularly good picture.
When it gets dark in Jiufen, the wheat separates from the chaff (e.g. Jan): The huge crowds that filled Old Street just a few hours before now make way for those that arrived here with several tripods, lenses and cameras to get that perfectly planned Instagram-shot in deserted streets flooded by red light.
But you can't really blame them: Illuminated by the countless lanterns, the alleys here have a truly magical feeling to them. If you get a chance to stay here overnight, you wouldn't want to miss this (*cough* Jan *cough*).
I'd like to defend myself here but I'm afraid that Nils right for once. The last days full of walking have left their marks on me and let me fall into my bed quite exhausted at the end of the day.

As a personal conclusion to Jiufen, I'd say that this small village is a wonderful day trip from Taipei for those who want to combine Chinese ambience with nature and a nice view.
Still, the groups of tourists as well as the shopkeepers playing their piccolo all day (and if you know me, you know how much I love a piccolo) or trying to sell stuff at "best price" are kind of annoying. But I guess with the sights come the tourists and those making their living from them.